In Milan there is a house I fell in love with: the Villa Necchi Campiglio, which belongs to the FAI. Truth is, it’s the kind of house I dream of living in, perhaps in a slightly more contemporary version. As with most dreams, it will probably never happen, so I have to make do with visiting it.
I think I have seen it a total of 7 times, often bringing family and friends. I have also recommended it on Twitter and Facebook, so apologies if you’ve been following me online for a while and think I am repeating myself. But that’s the thing with love, isn’t it: you bore others to death with the object of your affection…
Built between 1932 and 1935 in rationalist style by Milanese architect Piero Portaluppi, Villa Necchi Campiglio is a sumptuous residence with generously proportioned interiors and stunning public rooms. It was bequeathed to the FAI by the Necchi Campiglio family, who left it to the association in exactly the state it was when they inhabited it.
Located in very central Milan, where real estate prices reach the stars, the property boasts a large garden, a swimming pool (which was already heated in the 30s) and a tennis court. But it’s the interiors that really make my heart beat faster.
If you want to get a better idea of the house, you could watch Io sono l’amore (“I am love”), Luca Guadagnino’s utterly beautiful 2009 film, starring Tilda Swinton. It immerses you in the world of upper class Milan, and is a feast for the eyes. It follows the “adventures” of the Recchi family, who lives in, yes you guessed it, Villa Necchi Campiglio.
Tilda Swinton learnt Italian for the role, and is not doing too badly linguistically in the film. I can’t resist telling you I know the language coach who trained her (a pretty lame claim to fame, I know). That language coach is actually Russian, which comes in quite handy as Tilda is supposed to be a Russian who moved to Milan because of/thanks to her Italian husband.
The gorgeous costumes are by Jil Sander (when Belgian designer Raf Simons was still at the helm) and Fendi. The house, the clothes, the good food: everything in that movie breathes elegance.
If this post has enticed you to visit Villa Necchi (it should, that was the whole point of it), here is some practical information. The house is open from Wednesday to Sunday and entry costs 8€. Fear not for my wallet though: I may have visited it 7 times, but entry was for free, because I was a member of FAI. Buy a year-long membership from 39€, and visit all their properties and those of the National Trust for free (heritage galore!).
The house can only be visited through guided tours, which last around 1 hour and are usually conducted in Italian. If you are a small group, you can sometimes convince the guide to do the tour in English (a group of very persuasive friends of mine from Vienna managed to do so). Should your charms fail to operate (my Viennese friends were very charming), there are audioguides in English…